Custard Powder?

May 12, 2015May 12, 2015Leave a comment

As a Christmas gift one year, hubby received a ‘care’ package from home. Among the Jammie Dodgers, Jelly Babies, Digestives and Cadbury Flakes was a bright yellow and red tin of “Bird’s Custard Powder”. Iden birdscustard tifying the other childhood favorites was easy, but what was this Bird’s Custard Powder? Not only had I never heard of it, I wasn’t sure what to do with it.

The tin of powdered custard sat in the cupboard for quite awhile until one very cold, snowy winter’s night, neither one of us wanted to go out, but were looking for a little ‘something’ after dinner. Hmmmm, we had this Bird’s Custard Powder in the cupboard……

The directions were fairly simply ….
Mix 2 tablespoons of custard powder with 1 to 2 tablespoons of sugar (according to sweetness desired) in a bowl. From 1 pint of milk, mix a little milk into the custard powder mixture to form a smooth paste. In a small pot, heat the remaining milk over medium heat and then slowly whisk in the powder mixture. Continue stirring until custard thickens.

We poured the hot creamy mixture into dessert bowls and set them into the frig to cool. An hour later, with a dollop of whipped cream, we decided to ‘try’ our powdered dessert. It wasn’t bad! It ended up being a long, cold winter and we eventually used all the custard powder for ’emergency’ desserts.

Little did I know at that time how popular this yellow and red tin was. Many trips to Morrison’s, Sainsbury’s, Iceland and other U.K. supermarkets made me well aware of this ‘must have’ staple for most U.K. kitchens. Not only can you make thickened custards (aka ‘puddings’ in the U.S. – Jell-O puddings, Royal puddings), but it is a key ingredient for trifles, pie and cake fillings, or as a pouring custard over desserts. There are actually recipes based on using this as the main ingredient.

I asked many Brits what was this powdered substance. Interestingly, no one knew ….. and were not the least bit interested in finding out, but I had to.

Custard in the U.K. is what we in the U.S. would call a “pudding”. It is a mixture of milk, eggs and sugar which is heated until it thickens, and has been an important part of the British diet since Medieval times. Food historians have credited the Romans as being the first to actually combine cooked eggs with other ingredients to create savory and sweet foods. The earliest printed reference for custard/pudding is 1730. As always, it was the upper classes who were able to enjoy these sweet concoctions.

Alfred Bird, a registered pharmacist, chemist and an inventor, was bo birds-tub rn in Nympsfield, England in 1811. Alfred was the loving husband to Elizabeth. Elizabeth had food allergies – one of which was an allergy to eggs (the other was to yeast). As a concerned husband who wanted his wife to be able to have something sweet to pour onto her desserts, as was the style, without suffering an allergic reaction, Mr. Bird went into his laboratory.

Combining corn flour, sugar and flavorings, he created an egg-free, powdered substitute, which, when heated with milk, thickens and pours like custard. As happens so frequently, at a dinner party the dried-custard powder, which was suppose to be served to his wife only, was also accidentally served to all his dinner guests. They overwhelmingly enjoyed it. It was then that Alfred realized his ‘invention’ might have mass appeal.

It wasn’t long before Mr. Bird formed Alfred Bird and Sons Ltd. and opened a successful shop in Birmingham, England to sell his Bird’s Custard Powder. This was 1837. Six years later, the creative Mr. Bird invented another item that would ultimately transform the baking ind birdscustardold ustry ….. baking powder.

His egg-less custard and baking powder soon became household staples, as did his other products – blancmange powder, jelly powder, and egg substitutes. Others saw the success of these products and the competition began, but they couldn’t compete with the savvy Mr. Bird.

As a talented businessman, Alfred realized the power of promotions and advertising, creating fun and memorable advertising campaigns. Being touted as a healthy and nutritious food, children were often featured in his advertisements. Soldiers in WWI were provided with Bird’s custard as a healthful addition to their diet. It wasn’t long before Americans began using custard powder and other cornstarch derivatives as thickeners for custard-type desserts.
birdschildren
From an advertisement in 1918 : “At so small a cost as Bird’s Custard, there are few dishes in our daily diet which provide so much real nourishment and body-building material.

BIRD’s Custard is not only a delectable dainty, enjoyed by everybody, but is also a genuine whole-some food, which may be consumed freely by the children and grown-ups, with the confidence that, money for money, no better value is obtainable.

There is no shortage of BIRD’s Custard. There is plenty for everyone. We are working hard to supply the exceptional demands of the Military and the Public.”

Alfred Bird died in his home in 1878 at the age of 67, but not before passing the company on to his son, Alfred Bird, Jr. who then passed the company onto his son. In his obituary in the journal of the Chemical Society (of which he was a fellow), Alfred Bird Sr’s. skills and research were discussed at length, but never a mention of his other achievement, the famous Bird’s Custard Powder.

Bird’s was purchased by the General Foods Corporation, which was itself taken over by Philip Morris in the 1980s and then merged into Kraft Foods. Kraft Foods sold the Bird’s Custard brand in 2004 to Premier Foods, the current owners. Bird’s Custard can now be enjoyed by ex-pats around the World, from Italy, France, Spain, Greece, Germany, Austria, Sweden, India, Canada and the U.S.A.

The recipes using Bird’s Custard are too numerous to list. There are cookbooks and cooking websites dedicated to using this powdered custard as an ingredient. Now I know what to do with this yellow and red tin. How about you?

Pastry and Sweets for the Dinner & Supper Tables by Alfred Bird

85 Recipes online using Bird’s Custard Powder

Desserts using Bird’s Custard Powder

References: The Food Timeline, Wikipedia, Bird & Sons, Geni.com, Our Warwickshire.com

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Tea Dances

May 7, 2015July 1, 2015Leave a comment

Blackpool …..? Hubby kept telling me about this city on the west coast of England. Growing up he had heard much about this seaside tourist destination but had never been there. Really? Blackpool? Just the name conjures up images of splintered boardwalks, gaping piers held up by rusted columns , graffiti-covered buildings, and old, yellowed posters on every signpost. Not so! (The city was actually named Blackpool because of the color of the water that ran over the peat bogs before draining into the Irish Sea.)

So what does any of this have to do with tea dances?? Blackpool was a sleepy, little seaside village until the advent of railroads in the mid 1800’s. People started to believe that the sea was not something to be feared, but could actually be healthful. Wealthy merchants, landowners and aristocrats began to travel hundreds of miles to ‘bathe’ in these waters. They would also drink the seawater as a curative. It didn’t take long for entrepreneurs to realize the economic potential of turning this little fishing village, in particular, into a seaside resort destination. Soon hotels began to be built. Street lighting was installed. One of the country’s first amusement parks was erected. And with more development came more people. Blackpool soon became the most prominent seaside destination for the north of England, and subsequently all of Europe.

By the sea, by the sea, by the beautiful sea,
You and I, you and I, oh! how happy we’ll be …

This was the late 1800’s when England was enthralled with ‘tea’. Among the upper classes, ‘tea’ had become the nucleus for social gatherings everywhere, throughout this country and Europe. No longer was it just a beverage. It was now an activity. Also taking the world by storm at that time was the “dance”. From London to Edinburgh to Newcastle to Blackpool, dance halls were opening everywhere. These dance halls were not ordinary rooms, but were elegantly decorated galleries where membership was required … where tea and small sandwiches were served on the finest china … where for an hour or two you would forget your troubles and dance ever so graciously to the band that was playing all the newest songs. London had The Four Hundred Club and the Waldorf Hotel, among others. Edinburgh had the Grand Hotel. Newcastle had Tilley’s Room. And Blackpool had the elegant Tower Ballroom.

This spectacular dance hall located in the Blackpool Tower was designed by architect Frank Matcham, world renown for his creations of masterful theaters across Europe and the U.K.

The British elite were enthralled with this newly-revived entertainment and, in particular, the outrageous dance, which originated in Spain, called the “tango”. Although the waltz, quick-step, and fox trot were very popular, it was the daring tango which became de rigueur at what was then becoming known in the dance clubs as ‘Tango Teas’ or ‘Thé Tangos’. What could be more fun on a typical dreary English afternoon than to drop in to a lively dance club with your friends for a warming pot of tea and a steamy tango? This exotic and risque dance took the country by storm as everyone tried to master the intricacies of the steps.

The Daily Express reported “tango teas becoming so great a craze that one wonders if Mrs. Brown of Brixton will ever again be content to stay at home for plain drawing room tea without the accompaniment of a few tangos and a dress parade of two.”

World War I and the advent of the ‘cocktail hour’ saw the end of the nation’s obsession with tea dances. But it hasn’t gone away completely. It is still alive … in Blackpool … at the Tower Ballroom. Yes, Blackpool, where tea dances are still part of the Tower Ballroom tradition. Everyday the Ballroom hosts tea dances (as well as special events) while serving you an elegantly presented afternoon tea. You may visit any day and participate in this classic tradition. Just remember to put on your dancing shoes and dress appropriately. You won’t regret it!

Take a look . . . Blackpool’s Tea Dances

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References: A Social History of Tea by Jane Pettigrew, The Afternoon Tea Book by Michael Smith, the Blackpool Tower, WikiTravel U.K., Victorian Parlors by Patricia Mitchell
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Victoria Sandwich vs Victoria Sponge

April 28, 2015September 22, 2015Leave a comment

One of the things I LOVE to do while walking through the town centres anywhere in Great Britain is to go into bakeries. Who wouldn’t? The assortment of freshly baked and iced goodies turns me into a willpowerless, carb-craving child each and every time. And every time, I come away with ‘one of those, please‘ and ‘yes, one of these‘ and could I have ‘two of those over there‘?

We don’t have many bakeries in the U.S. anymore, not the in-town-centre, walk-past, window-displayed, shelf-laden purveyors of calorific goodness. So, of course, I succumb to the temptation each and every time. Wouldn’t you?

One of the staples sold in these bakeries, whether they are Mom and Pop shops, tearooms, or full chain restaurants, is the Victoria Sandwich aka Victoria Sponge. This traditional sponge cake was the favorite of Queen Victoria and, as a result, was named after her (as were most things in Britain). So what defines a cake as a Sandwich? In the 19th century, a cake was a single layer, very dense (baking powder had just been invented and wasn’t widely used), with some sort of sweetener either on top or mixed into the batter. This cake was very innovative because it had TWO layers which were “sandwiched” together with a thick layer of the Queen’s favorite Scottish raspberry jam. Charles Francatelli, the Queen’s personal chef, was quite explicit in his recipe: ‘Victoria Sandwich’ with Scottish raspberry jam = 1:1:1:1 equal parts eggs – flour – butter – sugar.

Clarissa Dickson Wright, British food historian and co-star of the popular British food show, “Two Fat Ladies”, explained that the Victoria Sponge actually originated as a cake served to children for nursery tea. She noted that tea cakes in early Victorian days would have consisted of a fruit cake or a seed cake, neither of which would have been served to children for safety reasons. As a result, this light sponge cake was created for their teatime treat. It actually wasn’t until this cake started to appear on adult tea tables that it became popular, and subsequently Queen Victoria’s favorite.

Although the original recipe is still used and respected, bakers have ‘enhanced’ the recipe just a bit to add more flavor. Today, you’ll see the layers sandwiched with buttercream or sweetened whipped cream in addition to the jam. A splash of vanilla extract or almond extract is often added to the batter. In Queen Victoria’s time, fine caster sugar was sprinkled on the top layer for added sweetness. You’ll often see confectioner’s sugar sifted over the top layer now. Do I object to any of these ‘enhancements’? Certainly not! But for the sake of keeping true to the original recipe, that’s the one I am using here. Let’s give it a try ……

VICTORIA SPONGE or SANDWICH
4 large eggs at room temperature (weigh on scale)
1-1/4 cups sugar (should be same weight as the eggs)
1-1/2 cups self-rising flour (1-1/2 cups cake flour + 2 tsp baking powder (which should also be the same weight as the eggs)
2 sticks softened butter (should be same weight as the eggs)
1 jar of good quality strawberry jam

The original recipe calls for all ingredients to be the same weight. I assembled the four ingredients and weighed them for accuracy at 240 grams. (Just slightly off on the butter, but I’m fine with that.)

Lightly grease 2 8″ or 9″ cake tins. Bake time for 8″ is 30 minutes – 9″ for 25 minutes. Line the bottom with lightly greased parchment paper.

Make sure the butter is soft and the eggs are at room temperature or you will not get a fluffy batter. Using an electric mixer, beat together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, and very pale in color.

Slowly beat in the eggs, one at a time. If the batter looks a bit curled, don’t worry, it will come together. In a separate bowl sift the flour and baking powder (or use self-rising flour). Slowly fold in the dry ingredients a little at a time. The batter should be a soft and light.

Divide the cake batter evenly between two cake tins. Lightly smooth the surface and then pop them onto the middle shelf of a preheated oven. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes (don’t peek beforehand) and then check for doneness. The layers should be well risen and golden brown on the surface. If the cakes are browning too quickly, lower the temperature just slightly but do not be tempted to open the door. If the cakes are not done, add 5 minutes.

Remove the cakes from the oven and let cool. After 5 or 10 minutes the cakes should have shrunk away from the sides of the tins. Remove the cakes from the tins and let cool completely. Once cooled, place one layer top side down onto a plate. Cover with a thick layer of strawberry jam and then place the second layer on top, creating your ‘sandwich’. Sift superfine sugar over the top. Serve with your favorite Earl Grey tea!!

My review: very rich, satisfying and delicious. A dollop of sweetened whipped cream and a few fresh berries would make this a perfect tea-time treat!

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References: The National Federation of Women’s Institute of Great Britain, Wikipedia.Org, BBC Foods.

The British Food Festival

April 22, 2015March 11, 2017Leave a comment

Hubby discovered this event while trolling the Internet a few weeks ago. We had already made plans to be in the County Durham area during that weekend …. yes, of course, I want to go! Master classes … celebrity chefs … local artisan foods … everything that I could learn from and use for my new blog and ultimately my new specialty foods café. Who knows, maybe Mary Berry or Paul Hollywood would be there. If not, then maybe one of the contestants from the Great British Bake Off.

I did my research, downloaded the map, the schedule of events, and was ready. We took a drive to Bishop Auckland the day before just to get the ‘lay of the land’. I certainly didn’t want us to get lost, or not know where to park. As we drove along the highway into Bishop Auckland, the flashing signboards were up warning us to “expect delays” because of what was expected to be thousands upon thousands of foodies descending on the town. We talked to relatives who kindly offered their driveways, knowing that we’d be driving around for hours trying to find a spot to park the car.

Off we set on Sunday morning. A typical English day, cold, damp, and grey, 8° C (about 46° F). The drive was uneventful. Parking (thank you Morrison’s) was not a problem. Walking to the town square was brisk, but quiet. Where were all the people? I was ready to battle the crowds. We saw the first of the white canopies, then more, then row after row of folding chairs, and a stage platform. But where is Mary Berry?

As we made our way through the market square down past the canopied vendors to Auckland Castle where the main event was to take place, finally, people!! The day began to brighten and so did my attitude. Look there’s a vendor selling Millionaire’s Shortbread and it LOOKS JUST LIKE MINE!! Pies ….. steak and stilton, pork and apple, cheese and onion, traditional and exotic. They were all here! Scones …. cheeses …. breads ….!

We sampled everything we possibly could from Spanish Paella to 6-month aged Bleu Cheeses. We drank hard ciders, homebrewed vodka, and, of course, tea. There were traveling troubadours singing the praises of ‘tomatoes’, squawking seagulls to entertain (and annoy) the children, foods from all over the world.

Did I read more into this event than it actually was? Probably! But, did I enjoy it? Absolutely!!

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References: The British Food Festival

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HOT CROSS BUNS

April 3, 2015March 10, 2017Leave a comment

I know what you’re saying, “hot cross buns?“. I grew up knowing that hot cross buns always appeared around Easter, and I certainly loved eating them, but I never knew their origin or why they were important to the Easter holiday.

During Elizabethan times (16th century) the celebration of Easter was the most important feast day in Great Britain. Often referred to as the Golden Age, this was a time of relative calm. The country was experiencing greater wealth. Protestants and Catholics resolved their differences. Parliament and the Monarchy worked together. And Queen Elizabeth began an event during Holy Week, known as the Cambridge Fair, so that she could be ‘among the common people‘.

At that time all bread dough was marked with a cross in the belief that it would ‘ward off evil influences that might prevent the dough from rising’. The Chelsea Bun House in London was one of the favorite spots of not only the common people, but royalty and the upper classes. They were most busy on the weekends when customers would enjoy the sweet, rich, currant buns the shop was so famous for. During the Cambridge Fair when the streets would fill with people for the three-day event, they would serve thousands upon thousands of their sweet, rich, currant buns. As reported in the London Encyclopaedia, Pan Macmillan, 2010, p. 155, the Chelsea Bun House “on its final Good Friday of 1839, sold almost quarter of a million hot cross buns.”

The buns quickly became a tradition to be eaten for breakfast on Good Friday. Street sellers would be out before dawn selling these sweet, fruit-laden breads. According to legend, one bun would be saved until the following year to bring the family good luck!

To bring your family good luck in the next year, go out and buy some Hot Cross Buns today. Or if you are daring enough to make these delicously rich buns, give the recipe a try ……..

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Hot Cross Buns
This is a three-step recipe and is perfect for a rainy day, when you can immerse yourself in the sights, smells and textures. Plan on 4 hours from start to finish. These are not the overly-sweet, icing rolls you find in U.S. stores. They are the classic Easter rolls, rich with a hint of cinnamony spice. Bakes at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. Makes 12 to 16.

All purpose flour – 3-1/2 cups
Salt – 1-1/2 teaspoons
Sugar – 1/2 cup
Instant, dry yeast – 2-1/2 teaspoons
Butter – 6 tablespoons, melted
Eggs – 2 medium (beaten)
Milk – 1/2 cup, warmed
Water – 1/2 cup, warmed
Cinnamon – 1 teaspoon
Nutmeg – 1/2 teaspoon
Dried, mixed fruit and candied peel – 1 cup
Flour – 1/2 cup
Water – 1/4 cup
Apricot jam – 1/2 cup

Warm the milk (a microwave oven is fine) and add the yeast. (I generally use canned milk for my bread baking. You can’t beat the convenience and it’s creamy and smooth.) Set aside to allow the yeast to proof (bubble up).

In a large mixing bowl, add the flour, salt, sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg and mix well. When the yeast mixture is bubbly, add it to the dry ingredients with the melted butter, beaten eggs and water. Beat until all the ingredients are blended together well. The dough should be soft, but not soggy.

Tip the dough out onto a floured board. Sprinkle the mixed dried fruit over and then begin kneading. You want to knead the fruit into the dough and work the dough until it becomes soft, smooth and shiny. This should take about 5 to 7 minutes.

When the dough feels smooth, put it into a large oiled bowl. Turn the dough over and over until it is oiled as well. Cover the bowl with a towel and leave to rise in a warm spot. The dough should rise until it has doubled in size – from one to two hours (longer is fine).

After the dough has fully proofed, punch it down to knock out all the air, and tip it onto a floured board again.

Meanwhile, warm your oven to 350° and line the baking sheets with parchment paper. Cut the dough into pieces (12, 14, 16 you decide how many you want to make and how big they should be). Flatten each piece and then tuck the sides under until you have smooth, uniform rolls. Place on the baking sheets, fairly close, but not touching.

For the classic cross, mix 1/2 cup flour with 1/4 cup water til smooth. Put this paste into a piping bag (plastic bag will do fine) and pipe a cross on the top of each roll. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes until golden brown.

When they come out of the oven, brush each roll with apricot jam (thin with a little water if necessary). The jam adds a nice sheen and sweetness. Cool on a wire rack. Enjoy!

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Resources: Porters English Cookery Bible, Wikipedia Elizabethan Era, London Encyclopaedia

Earl Grey ….. the man, the tea!

March 30, 2015July 1, 20151 Comment

What is it about Earl Grey tea that makes it the most popular tea in the world? Having been a purveyor of tea for 15 years, it has always stymied me. There are so-o-o many tasty teas out there, but Earl Grey lovers want Earl Grey tea and nothing more. Where did this tea come from and how did it achieve such loyalty?

For me, the history and legend of Earl Grey is far more interesting than the tea. Born March 13, 1764, Charles Grey was the second son of General Charles Grey of Southwick, County Durham, England. With an impressive education at Eton and Trinity College, he found himself attracted to politics and, at the age of 22, became one of the youngest members elected to Parliament. With his youthful, idealistic beliefs and strong political stands, he soon became a prominent figure in the Whig party. Although viewed as extreme at the time, Grey was able to lead many reforms over the next few years. In 1806 the Whig party was disbanded, and although Grey remained very active in politics, it wasn’t until 1830, when the Whigs were returned to power, that Grey was elected as Prime Minister.

Described as a man of many contradictions (classic Aries), headstrong, ambitious and impulsive, yet indecisive, pessimistic and at times and foolish, Charles married Mary Elizabeth Ponsonby in 1794. On the surface, Grey appeared to be a devoted husband and father with a family numbering 15 children (six daughters and ten sons). Prior to his marriage, and some say throughout, he was a notorious ladies’ man. His most public affair was with the Duchess of Devonshire, Georgiana Spencer, with whom he produced a child in 1792.

Among the many impressive pieces of legislation that Grey’s ministry was able to accomplish were:

the Abolition of Slavery Act
the Factory Act
the ending of the East India Company monopoly
ending the farm workers ‘Swing Riots’
a state-funded grant for the building of schools
allowing marriages to take place in non-Conformist chapels
the 1834 Poor Law Amendment Act reforming child labor laws

Needless to say, this man was an impressive figure who made quite a contribution to England’s political environment and culture, but when and where did the “tea” connection come from?

Let’s start at the beginning …..
The first chests of tea arrived from China at the docks in London in 1645. It was, at this time, a fashionable trend among the aristocratic elite to enjoy this exotic beverage. Over the next 100 years, Great Britain and the new America became obsessed with “tea”. It had gone from being the beverage of the upper class to the daily drink of commoners. The East India Company, one of the largest financial monopolies in the world, was formed by Queen Elizabeth I to handle all the trade with China, primarily the ‘tea’ trade.

The consumption of tea by the Brits had increased from 1 million pounds per year to over 20 million pounds per year. To pay for this tea, the East India Company offered the Chinese textiles. The Chinese were far more advanced in manufacturing than the British and did not want such inferior goods. They wanted to be paid in silver bullion. At the beginning, this wasn’t a problem for the British because silver was in great supply; but with the loss of the American colonies, access to South America, where the silver was mined, was becoming more and more difficult. The British had some opium plantations in India and soon realized the answer to their “tea” problem was to increase their opium trade with the Chinese.

This was about the time when Lord Grey came into power. But how Grey became associated with the tea, especially one named for him, is unclear. There are many legends and discussions, none of which have been verified …..

The most familiar is that Lord Grey traveled to China, and during the trip, he, or one of his servants, saved the life of a son of a Chinese mandarin from drowning and was given this tea blend as a “thank you”.
Another similar version of this tale has the son of an Indian Raja being rescued from a tiger by one of Lord Grey’s servants. In both tales, Lord Grey was given the tea as a way of saying “thank you”.
One story tells how this tea blend was created by accident when a gift of tea and bergamot fruits were shipped together from China and the tea absorbed the fruit flavor during shipping.
Another story says the tea was named after Charles by Jackson’s of Piccadilly, who blended the tea “to meet the wishes of the former Earl of Grey”.

The legends also describe Lord Grey as having enjoyed this tea so much, he asked a London tea merchant to try to replicate the flavor. The Prime Minister being so pleased, he allowed this custom-blended tea to be sold to select customers. Interestingly, in 1837 (three years after Lord Grey left political life), London tea merchants, Brocksop & Company faced criminal charges for adding bergamot to lower quality tea in order to misrepresent it as a superior product (at a higher price). Would Lord Grey really have endorsed an inferior tea? I highly doubt it.

My theory is …. the early founders of London tea salons, Thomas Twining and Robert Jackson were both shameless self-promoters and marketeers. With British tea shops becoming very popular and competitive, they had to do something to draw attention to their shops and the teas they sold. What better way than to create a specialty blends in honor of a dignitary perhaps or member of the royal family? The “Queen Victoria” blend, “Royal Wedding” blend, and possibly the “Earl Grey” blend.

Twining and Jackson both took credit for creating the now familiar blend which uses the natural oils from the peel of the bergamot fruit to flavor the Chinese blend of black leaves, but will we ever know? What we do know is that this tea, which bears the name of the Prime Minister of England, is one of the most popular flavored teas in the world today (although I don’t know why).

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Resources: Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc. , Wikipedia, the Victorian Web, The Book of Tea by Anthony Burgess, TEA by Lydia Gautier, TEA by Roy Moxham

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Cornish Pasties

March 26, 2015June 23, 20151 Comment

Every time we visit England, the first stop my husband has to make is to a motorway rest area. Yes, the very same ones that appear along highways and motorways everywhere …. except in England where they have a food truck in the parking lot selling authentic “Cornish Pasties”. “One Cornish pastie and one cheese and onion pastie, please.” We then go back to the car where he savors every last bite. Knowing how much he enjoys these rustic hand pies, I have learned to make them. They may not have the “terroir” of the ones in England, but they’re pretty darn good.

History of Cornish Pasties
A “pastie” is a pastry pie, most often filled with meat and/or veggies. It is thought that pies originated in England around the 1300s as a practical way to serve and preserve meats. The better cuts of meat were, of course, used by the wealthy upper class, with the lower class reduced to using entrails and organ meats, known at that time as the “umbles” (from which we get the term “eating (h)umble pie, meant as an apology). Now these “umbles” are referred to as “offal” and are quite the trend in gourmet dining.

During the Middle Ages the pies were highly spiced (in an attempt to cover up the rancid flavors, I’m assuming). With no refrigeration, pie making took place on a Monday and they were expected to last the week, if not longer. Eventually, pie making took place outside the home and the “pie man” became as important as the ‘butcher, the baker and the candlestick maker’. Hopefully, I’m not the only one who remembers the nursery rhyme “Sing a song of six pence, a pocket full of rye, four and twenty blackbirds baked in a pie. When the pie was opened, the birds began to sing, wasn’t that a dainty dish to set before the king?”

The pie quickly became popular as a method of providing a hearty meal to laborers who worked on the farms and in the mines. A hearty pie could be transported easily, required no plates or utensils and would sustain a worker til he returned home at night. Originally the hand pie was made with a savory meat filling at one end and a sweet fruit filling at the other. Who doesn’t love a little dessert at the end of their meal?

The Cornish pastie is so revered, in 2011 it received protected status from the European Commission. You can buy pasties all around the U.K., but to buy a “Cornish pastie” the Commission requires it to be prepared in Cornwall, but it can be baked elsewhere. Also, it must contain uncooked meat, potatoes, turnip, onion, salt and pepper (nothing more). It must be in the shape of a “D” and be crimped along one side. If it does not meet all these requirements, it can be a “pastie”, but not a “Cornish pastie“.

It appears even Hobbits enjoyed pasties in the Shire ….

Classic Cornish Pastie Recipe
Like regional foods everywhere, every family has their own special touches. The following is the classic recipe, which we love. Feel free to add your own special touch as well. You should get 8 to 10 servings, depending on the size of the rounds you cut from the pastry. If you are going to prepare your own pastry, it does take a little extra time, but its so good. Prepackaged pastry, however, works just fine.

The Crust
All purpose flour – 2-1/4 cups
Salt – 1 teaspoon
Butter, cold, unsalted – 8 ozs., cut into cubes
Cold Water – 6 tablespoons or more
The Filling
Chuck steak – 10 ozs., cut into 1/4″ dice
Onion – 1 small, cut into 1/4″ dice
Potato – 1 medium, peeled and cut into 1/4″ dice
Parsnip – 1 medium, peeled and cut into 1/4″ dice
Salt – 1 teaspoon
Pepper – 1/2 teaspoon
Butter
Egg – 1 lightly beaten

Put the flour and salt into a large bowl (or food processor) and add the cold, cubed butter. If you are using a food processor, pulse quickly til the butter is incorporated but still visible. If using your fingers, or a pastry cutter, incorporate the butter only until the mixture looks like bread crumbs. Add the cold water and mix with a fork quickly until a dough forms. If more water is needed, don’t hesitate to add it, but a little is all you need. Turn the dough out onto a floured board and knead briefly. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate. You want the dough to stay as cold as possible to get that nice flaky crust.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Place a rack in the center of the oven. Prepare two large baking sheets with parchment paper. While the oven is preheating, in a large bowl combine the diced meat, onion, potato and parsnip. Add the seasonings and set aside.

On a floured board roll out the pastry dough until it is 1/4″ thick. I cut the dough in two pieces to make handling a bit easier. Using a plate, or pot cover, or anything that will give you a 6″ diameter round (or larger, if you’d prefer), cut rounds out from the pastry dough.

Stack the rounds on a plate with waxed paper in between to prevent sticking. Gather up the scraps and reroll them. Don’t be wasteful. You should have 8 to 10 6″ rounds.

Using one pastry round at a time, place about 1/2 cup of filling to the side of the pastry. Add a pat of butter onto the filling and then brush the beaten egg around the edges. Fold the unfilled side over the filling and press down to seal.

Starting at one edge, crimp the edges to prevent leaking. A traditional Cornish pastie has 21 crimps. The most I could achieve was 14. Oh well, more practice is needed!

Place the pasties on the baking sheets and brush with the remaining egg. Cut two slits in the top of each pastie to allow steam to escape.

Bake at 400 degrees for 20 minutes until the edges begin to brown. Then reduce the temperature to 350 degrees and bake for 20 to 25 minutes more, or until golden. Remove from the oven and cool for 10 minutes. For lunch, a quick supper or snack, they are delicious. Enjoy!!

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Aunt Mae’s Soda Bread

March 17, 2015March 16, 2016Leave a comment

The last time I saw my Aunt Mae was in her bungalow in the village of Tullamore in County Offaly, Ireland. We spent the afternoon sitting at the kitchen table having tea and her freshly-baked soda bread while looking through the family photograph albums. She was a mere slip of a woman, barely 5′ tall, with a delightful sense of humor, ready to enthrall you with endless stories.

This may certainly be the same classic Irish Soda Bread recipe that everyone uses, but for me, it’s my Aunt Mae’s soda bread ….. and it’s delicious! Even if you aren’t someone who bakes, you can handle this one. It’s quick and easy. When you take it out of the oven, serve it up quickly with a big block of imported Irish butter. Nothing better!

Aunt Mae’s Soda Bread
This will make one large loaf or two smaller loaves. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Gather the following ingredients, a large mixing bowl, measuring cup and spoon and baking pan or dish. That’s it!

All purpose flour – 4 cups
Baking soda – 1-1/2 teaspoons
Salt – 1-1/2 teaspoons
Sugar – 1/4 cup (optional)
Raisins (dried cranberries or any dried fruit) – 1/2 cup
Buttermilk – 2 cups (the buttermilk interacts with the baking soda causing the bread to rise)

Put the flour, baking soda and salt in a mixing bowl and mix together. I use a whisk to incorporate the dry ingredients thoroughly and lighten the flour a bit. Add the dried fruit and mix together. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in all the buttermilk. With a fork, stir quickly until the dough comes together. On a floured surface, tip the bowl over and work the dough with your hands into a nice smooth ball. Don’t overknead the dough. It will be soft. Form a ball (or two if you are making two loaves) and place it in a greased baking pan. Mine could have been a bit smoother. Cut a criss-cross slash into the top of the loaf, about 1/2″ deep. This will allow the loaf to cook evenly. It will expand (or open up) as it bakes. Bake for about 50 minutes to an hour. It should sound hollow when the bottom is thumped and a cake tester should come out clean (no crumbs). If you want to add a bit of sugar for sweetening, add it to the dry ingredients. You may also brush the top of the loaf before baking with an egg wash or milk for a shiny crust. Be sure to put the kettle on, because you’re going to want a hot cuppa with a slice of Aunt Mae’s Soda Bread!

Millionaire’s Shortbread

March 15, 2015July 21, 2021Leave a comment

The first time I had this rich, buttery piece of deliciousness was about ten years ago, in a basement tearoom of an old Manor House in Cornwall. The tearoom was very modest, providing visitors with just a quick cuppa and a biscuit (cookie) or scone. But standing out among the other biscuits was this stunning shortbread …. a buttery cookie base with gooey caramel filling, topped with a thick layer of milk chocolate. Irresistible!!

But now, at least 10 years later, Millionaire’s Shortbread is EVERYWHERE! From the food counters at M&S, to the bakery cases in the finest patisserie, to handy packages of 2, 4 or 6 pieces at every roadside rest area shop. But, honestly, even the prepackaged shortbreads were pretty darn good.

How did Millionaire’s Shortbread get it’s name?
Shortbread originated in Scotland around the 12th century as a simple unleavened biscuit (cookie) using just the ingredients available in most homes at that time ….. butter, flour, sugar. The refinement of this biscuit didn’t occur until Mary Queen of Scots assigned her French chefs to the task. Only with the addition of more butter, more sugar, a pinch of salt, and formed into different shapes, did this delectable morsel become in demand. Over time, other ingredients were added, lemon, almonds, ginger, cinnamon. This version, with its creamy caramel center and thick milk chocolate topping, didn’t appear until the 19th century. It is said that to be able to afford this decadently RICH biscuit you actually had to be a “Millionaire”.

Of course, I had to try my hand at making it. I must admit to a couple of fails (overbaked shortbread, burnt caramel, etc.), but the last one turned out exactly how I remembered it. So, don’t be afraid to make a mistake (or two), it’s well worth the effort in the end.

MILLIONAIRE’S SHORTBREAD
Shortbread base:
2 sticks butter, softened
1/2 cup sugar
2-1/4 cups all purpose flour
1/4 cup cornstarch

Caramel filling:
1/2 cup water
2-1/2 cups sugar
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup heavy cream

Chocolate topping:
10 oz. chocolate – milk, semi-sweet, or dark
1 teaspoon vegetable oil

Preheat oven to 350°. Grease and flour, or line with parchment paper a 9″ x 13″ baking pan. I recommend using parchment paper. It makes getting the shortbread out of the baking pan much easier.

In one bowl mix together the flour and cornstarch. In another bowl using a stand or hand mixer, beat the softened butter til creamy. Add 1/2 cup of sugar to the creamed butter and beat til lemony colored, light and airy.

Using a wooden spoon, slowly add the dry ingredients to the creamed mixture, blending well. The mixture will be very crumbly (short). Don’t overwork the dough or your cookies will be tough. Dump the batter into the prepared baking pan and press down with your hands. Use whatever you happen to have (with a flat bottom) to press the batter down firmly and evenly.

Bake at 350° for 16 to 18 minutes – just until its set and lightly browned. Take the shortbread out of the oven and let it cool in the pan while you prepare the caramel.

The caramel can be tricky (believe me, I’ve burnt a couple of batches). The secret is to not stir it, or take your eyes off it, while its boiling away. A minute will make all the difference. If you want to use a candy thermometer, then by all means use it. I didn’t.

Using a heavy, high-sided saucepan pour the sugar into the center of the pan. Then carefully pour the water around the outside of the sugar. Try not to get the sugar onto the sides of the pan or it will crystallize. If this happens, have a pastry brush handy in a cup of water to wash down the sides of the pan. Do not stir the sugar and water together. Just let it be.

Using medium heat, bring the sugar and water to a boil – NO STIRRING. When it boils, reduce the heat to low and let it boil away until its caramel colored. You can determine how dark you want it … but don’t let it burn. This will take about 15 minutes.

When it is ready, remove the pan from the heat and drop in 2 tablespoons of butter. The mixture will immediately boil up. Using a wooden spoon, quickly stir in the butter. Now pour in the 1/2 cup of heavy cream. Again the mixture will bubble up. Stir it down quickly. Continue stirring until the caramel has cooled down and thickened. This will take about 5 minutes.

When it is ready, pour the caramel over the cooled shortbread and place the pan into the refrigerator to let the caramel set.

This is the easiest part … dump a bag of chocolate chips (milk chocolate or semi-sweet, it’s up to you), into a microwave-proof bowl and melt the chocolate. When its melted, stir in the oil. Quickly pour the warm chocolate over the cooled caramel filling and, with the back of a spatula, smooth out the surface. Let the chocolate cool completely.

When ready to serve, take the shortbread out of the pan. If you’ve used parchment paper, you can just lift it up and out. Using a very sharp knife, cut the shortbread into bars or squares. It’s up to you! Stack them up on a plate and keep an eye on them because they’ll disappear right before your eyes. But, if they don’t, they’ll keep very well in an airtight container.

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Armed and Ready

March 14, 2015June 18, 2015Leave a comment

We just returned from a week in northern England. During our quick visit, we attempted to consume as many calories from English sweets and savories as we possibly could manage. From Cornish pasties to Eccles cakes, we sampled, critiqued, analyzed and devoured all our favorites (and some which weren’t). Now armed with quite a few interesting English bakery cookbooks, I am ready to proceed. Cheese and onion pasties here I come!

Tea, Toast and Travel

Exploring the World of British Foods and Traditions