BREAKFAST TEAS

Have you ever had one of those nights when you’re laying in bed and your head becomes full of the most bizarre, unrelated thoughts.  As hard as you try to toss them aside, you can’t.  Those thoughts just keep coming back into your consciousness … rolling around and around and around.  Well, that’s exactly what happened to me last night.  And, for some reason, the subject was breakfast teas.  Yes, I know … bizarre!   English Breakfast and Scottish Breakfast to be exact.

What kept occurring to me was, “why do they exist?”  Although I’ve traveled through all the wonderful countries of Great Britain, never have I seen (except in grocery stores), been offered or served a “breakfast tea”.  I’ve been served PG Tips, Yorkshire Gold, Barry’s, Twining’s, A&P, Tetley and a variety of unknown bagged teas.  I’ve also been served, on one occasion, a very nice Ceylon.  But never anything for breakfast called “breakfast tea” whether it’s from England, Scotland, Ireland or Wales. That doesn’t mean they don’t exist or aren’t being sold in grocery stores.  Barry’s now has an English Breakfast and Taylor’s even has a Scottish Breakfast.

Here in the States, however, many tea drinkers think you need to start the day with a breakfast tea … most often, English Breakfast, but, of course, if you are a “real tea drinker” then it’s Irish Breakfast.  Why would all of this be running around in my head at 3am?  I don’t know.  But the more I tried to put it away, the more I tried to understand it.

As a tea retailer, my English Breakfast tea … a bright blend of assertive Ceylon and hearty Assam with a burgundy-like Keemun … was by far my most popular seller until that is, customers started asking for something stronger.  They needed a tea that packed the punch of a cuppa coffee … something that would stand up better to milk and sugar.   Knowing that Barry’s packed a punch, I created a tea much like it … a rich, dark blend of high-quality CTC (cut, torn and curled) malty Assams … Irish Breakfast it was!  And it was a huge hit.  But now other customers said it was too assertive, too rich, too dark.  You cannot please everyone, I guess, so back to the blending table.

I felt like Goldilocks and the Three Bears … if the Daddy Bear Irish Breakfast was too strong, and the Baby Bear English Breakfast was too weak, then we needed a Momma Bear.  How about … Scottish Breakfast!

Scottish Breakfast became an even bigger success than English or Irish.  Every customer loved it.  A blend of orthodox full-bodied Assams with just a hint of Ceylons, it struck the right balance between the two.  It held its own with milk and sugar, or dark right from the pot.  It was such a success that orders for 2, 3 and 5 lbs. were coming in continuously.  Customers didn’t want to run out.  Even today, although I’ve closed up shop, I still get requests for “Scottish Breakfast” tea.

But the question still remains unanswered.  With more than 3500 varieties of teas available including Assams, Keemuns, Ceylons, Yunnans, Darjeelings, white teas, green teas, pu-erhs and oolongs, teas from countries all over the world, China, India, Sri Lanka, Taiwan, Nepal, Kenya, Japan, then why are breakfast teas still so much in demand here in the States?

And as I sit here this morning enjoying a delicate cup of fragrant, light  Silver Needles with its hint of sweetness, this question remains unanswered and still continues to run through my head.

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Biscotti Time

I know … I know … this blog is about the foods of Great Britain.  But I do have to acknowledge my Italian heritage occasionally.  And what is better than biscotti!  Crunchy, sweet and perfect any time of the day.  As much as I love to dip them into a piping hot cup of Irish Breakfast, I also love to dip them into a full-bodied Montepulciano.  Cuppa tea, red wine or even a cold glass of milk?  It’s up to you.

Closely related to the British word for cookies “biscuits”, biscotti literally means ‘twice baked’. These Italian cookies originated in the city of Prato and were composed of just four ingredients: flour, sugar, eggs and almonds.  Today, recipes vary widely in  flavors and ingredients, anything from chocolate and hazelnut to coconut orange, or lavender, even lemon basil.  There are no limits, let your imagination run wild.

It’s a damp, cold rainy evening and I’m in the mood for a hot cuppa and biscotti.  Taking a look in the cupboard, I see dried cranberries and white chocolate bits.  Okay then, these are going to be …

WHITE CHOCOLATE CRANBERRY BISCOTTI
Preheat oven to 350°

1-2/3 cups flour
1/2 tsp. baking powder
pinch salt
3/4 cup sugar
2 eggs, room temperature*
1 tsp. vanilla
1/2 cup chopped dried cranberries, coated with flour
1/2 cup white chocolate, bits or shaved

*Eggs should always be room temperature for baking.  If they aren’t, just put them into warm water to take the chill off.

In one bowl, sift all dry ingredients together (twice if you are like me).

In another bowl, beat the sugar, eggs and vanilla until light and lemony colored.

 Beat in the dry ingredients and, when well blended,  add in chopped dried cranberries and white chocolate bits.

Coating the cranberries with a teaspoon of flour will keep them from falling to the bottom.

 After everything is incorporated, cover and refrigerate for about an hour.  Then dump the dough onto a lightly floured board.

Knead the dough quickly until smooth, and form the dough into a ball.

Cut the ball in half and form two long logs, about 12″ and about 3/4″ high.

 Line a large baking tray (or two small ones) with parchment paper and carefully place the logs on.  They will rise, so don’t place them too close together.

Place the baking tray into the center of the oven and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden.  Test with a cake tester in the middle of the log.

 

When ready, remove the tray and cool completely.   When the logs are cooled, slice the logs with a serrated knife, diagonally, into slices about 1/2″ thick.  You can slice then thinner, or thicker, it’s up to you.

Place them bake onto the baking tray and bake again from anywhere between 15 to 20 minutes.  I flip them over half way through the second baking.  This is optional.

The second baking will depend upon how thick you have sliced them.  They should be lightly browned and crispy.  Cool on a rack.

Store these delicious confections in an airtight container and they will last for quite awhile (or, in my house, two days at the most!!).

Did I put the kettle on and make tea?  Absolutely!  What a delightful way to end a stressful day … baking something delicious and enjoying the results!!  Next time, maybe Ginger Almond, or Orange Pistachio?  Any suggestions?

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References:  Wikepedia, Julia Child’s, Cooking with Master Chefs

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Barm Brack

The first time I had Barm Brack was in Ireland about 35 years ago when it was served to me with breakfast … warm from the oven, rich and dark, speckled with dried fruits and slathered in sweet, creamy butter.  Barm Brack is not a bread you see for sale here in the U.S. unless you go to a bakery which specializes in Irish foods.  Determined to make my own, I started the search for the definitive recipe.  The problem is, there appears to be as many different recipes for this classic Irish loaf as their are dried fruits in the mix.  As with every country, many ‘homey’ recipes are passed down from generation to generation, most often never having been written down.  As a result, they vary significantly.

Many websites (including Wikipedia) refer to Barm Brack as a ‘quick bread’ (requiring no yeast at all).  The name Barm Brack actually comes from the English word, “beorma,” which means yeasty.  As a result, this is a “yeast” bread, not to be confused with the quick bread version, Tea Brack, which uses baking powder as its leavening agent.  The Gaelic word for speckled is “brac” so whether you use yeast or baking powder, what we have is a delicious bread with dried fruits.

 Although Barm Brack is enjoyed all year round, it is traditionally served at Halloween.  Small trinkets are concealed in the bread … much like the baby in the King Cake at Mardi Gras.  On Etsy you can actually buy Barm Brack kits to add the charms to your dough – a coin (for riches), a ring (for marriage), a pea (for no marriage – or maybe divorce), and a stick (for an unhappy marriage).

If you, like me, use a stand mixer with a dough hook to make bread, then this is not a difficult bread to make at all.  And on a cold, rainy day, what could be more perfect than the smell of bread baking in the oven?  Of the many versions of the classic recipe, this one’s my favorite.  If you make it, let me know how it comes out.  Enjoy!

BARM BRACK
Makes one super large round loaf or two 1 pound loaves.  When ready to bake, preheat oven to 375°.

4-1/2 cups unbleached white flour
1 tsp. allspice
1-1/2 tsps. salt
1 pkg. active dry yeast
3 tablespoons brown sugar
1-1/4 milk – warmed
4 tablespoons melted butter
1 beaten egg
1-3/4 cup dried fruits (raisins, cranberries, currants, cherries, candied peel) soaked in …
2/3 cup water
vegetable oil
1 beaten egg white

A couple hours before you begin to make the bread, put the dried fruits into a bowl – bring the water to a boil and pour over the dried fruits.  Soak the fruits until softened – anywhere from an hour to overnight. 

When softened, drain the fruits and reserve the water – to add to the bread batter.

Into a large mixing bowl add flour, salt, allspice and blend together.  In a separate bowl mix together the sugar, yeast and warmed milk (not too hot).  Make a well in the center of the large bowl and pour in the yeast mixture.  Add the beaten egg, melted butter and most of the water from the fruits.

Using a dough hook (or wooden spoon if you are not using a stand mixer), blend all ingredients together until incorporated.  Mix well.  Add more water if needed to make a smooth dough.  I like to beat the dough briskly so that my kneading time is reduced.  Add the dried fruits at the last moment – incorporating thoroughly.

Turn the dough onto a lightly floured board and let it rest for a few minute while you wash out the bowl and oil it.  Then knead the dough vigorously for at least 10 minutes to build up the gluten.  It should be smooth and not sticky.

Place the dough back into the bowl, oil the top of the dough so it doesn’t dry out and cover with plastic wrap.  PutOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA the bowl in a warm spot, free from drafts, to let the dough rise until its about double in size (one to two hours).

When the dough has risen fully, it should retain an indentation when you press into it with your finger.   Punch the air out of the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured board once again.

Grease or oil your pan(s).  The classic shape is one large round loaf, but you can create any size or shape you’d like.  In the past I’ve chosen to make two one pound loaf pans, today its going to be one super large loaf.

When shaping the dough, making sure there are no air holes in it.  Place the dough into the pan(s).  Let it rise again until doubled in size (30 minutes or so).   Brush the tops with the beaten egg white.  You can cut slits into the top of the loaf if you’d like … or not.

Bake at 375° … 1-1/4 hours for one loaf … 60 minutes for two.  The loaf should sound hollow when rapped on the bottom with a spoon.  Turn the bread out onto a wire rack and let cool.


Look at the size of this thing!!  It could be a weapon, it’s so large.  But it is beautiful and will be delicious!!  So now its time to take the butter out of the frig to soften … put the kettle on and enjoy!

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References:  THE COMPLETE IRISH PUB COOKBOOK

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