Tag: Jane Austen

The Queen’s Grocer, Fortnum & Mason

Leave a comment

Would you believe the Queen of England and I have something in common?  Yes, we do.  And it is that FORTNUM & MASON  is our favorite grocery store.  Yes, this extraordinary store selling some of the most exclusive and expensive items in the world, is a grocery store.  And my favorite!   If you’ve ever visited London, hopefully, don’t just visit Harrod’s, put a trip to Fortnum & Mason on your ‘must’ list too.  You will not be disappointed.

It all began with the Great Fire of 1666, which set all of London ablaze.  As established builders, the Fortnum family moved to London to help with its rebuilding.  A young cousin, William, arrived with the family, renting a room from Hugh Mason, a livery stables keeper, while he took a job as footman in the palace of Queen Anne.   Queen Anne insisted on fresh, new candles each day, so when the royal courtiers retired at the end of the day, William had to replace the candlesticks of the half-used candles with fresh ones.  Rather than throw them away, he took the candle stumps back to his room where he melted them down, replaced the wicks and created new candles.  He would then sell the ‘new’ candles to the chambermaids and household staff, making a tidy profit.

With his entrepreneurial spirit, William approached his landlord, Mr. Mason, with a business proposition to jointly open a store selling the candles and groceries.  They chose the then less affluent Mayfair section of London, a section still undergoing rebuilding and it was there in 1707  that they opened their small store.   Fortnum used his palace connections to drum up business and working closely with the East India Company, began to sell imported teas.  A short two years later, this little grocer had outgrown their original location, moving to where they still are today.

The entrepreneurial spirit continued with William Fortnum’s grandson and namesake, also William Fortnum, who took over the business fifty years later.  The relationship with the palace also continued and they soon became the premiere supplier of teas to the Royals.

Fortnum & Mason had established a very successful business selling ready-made, take-away dishes like pork pies, poultry in aspic, dried fruits, marmalades and jams, to their affluent customers.  One item, which the newest Fortnum created, became immediately popular, the “Scotched Egg“.   A boiled egg, wrapped in sausage and deep fried, the ‘Scotched Egg’ did not need refrigeration, was a lot less smelly than just a boiled egg … and, it was delicious!

Fortnum then created their iconic baskets or “hampers” for hungry travelers, complete with disposable bamboo cutlery.  Whether it was across country or out for an afternoon, travel during that time was long and arduous.  Refrigeration didn’t exist.  There were no fast-food restaurants.  These ‘hampers’ were not only perfect for the road-weary, hungry traveler, but became in demand for an afternoon picnic, which after Jane Austen wrote about the Box Hill picnic in her novel, EMMA, were taking place everywhere.  Not only the aristocracy, but the middle classes quickly  adopted this favorite summertime activity and Fortnum & Mason’s picnic hampers were everywhere.
Since that time, Fortnum & Mason have sent hampers to every part of the world … from base camps on Mount Everest to the battlefields of Iraq.  When Napoleon said “an army marches on his stomach”, I wonder if he knew that Fortnum & Mason was supplying the British officers with food and supplies.  The Napoleonic War lasted from 1799 to 1815 and during that time officers in the British army would order specialty food items, dried fruits, preserves, pates, so that they wouldn’t have to suffer the hardship of war.

Those were the days when clothing mattered and a gentlemen carried an umbrella and wore gloves.  Committed to providing excellence in service while catering to the posh upper-classes, Fortnum’s elevated the uniform of its clerks and doormen from the simple uniform of other stores to waist coat, tails and striped pants.  Doormen wore top hats, opened doors and carried your purchases to your carriage.  Clerks knew you by name and knew your preferences.

Of course, they wouldn’t be the iconic store they are without serving Afternoon Tea, which they have been serving for centuries.  The original St. James room was completely refurbished in 2012 in honor of the Queen’s  Diamond Jubilee.

The magic begins when you enter the building . . . below the ornate clock, built in 1964, where four foot high replicas of Mr. Fortnum and Mr. Mason emerge and bow to each other every hour to the sound of 18th century music . . . and take the red-carpeted stairs to the Fourth floor.  Decorated in their elegant signature blue, you’ll notice the grand piano where the resident pianist plays daily, and then the rows of tea urns lining the walls.  Each table is set exquisitely.  An ever-changing array of offerings from classic scones, finger sandwiches and desserts are impeccably presented and served on a classic three-tiered silver tray.  And, yes, you can ask for ‘seconds’ with no additional charge.  With over 100 specialty teas, you’re bound to find one or more that you like.  It’s expensive … but so worth it.

Afternoon Tea at Fortnum & Mason

From their humble beginnings in the early 1700s until now, Fortnum & Mason has not changed their focus.  They may not be just a grocery store any longer, and many of the great food halls have changed, but there is something that remains unchanged about Fortnum & Mason and that is the commitment to quality products and superior service.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~
References:  Williams Sonoma, Wikipedia, Fortnum and Mason, Britain Express, Hazle Ceramics, Afternoon Tea.UK,
_____________________________________________________________________________

Bath …. a fascinating city!

Leave a comment

We try to visit England as often as we can and each time we do we select a different region or city.  Hubby remembered visiting Bath once when he was a child.  So, Bath it is!  From the moment we arrived, I knew I was going to love England’s only World Heritage City.  It might sound strange to describe a city this way, but, for me, it had gravitas.

We chose a small, older hotel, centrally located, directly across the street from the train station. It couldn’t be more perfect.  Bath is a ‘walking city’ and we were able to do just that … with quick stops back to the room to refresh and relax for a moment before eagerly conquering our next destination.

Before our visit, I had no idea the reason the city is called “Bath” is simply because of the natural mineral springs around which the Romans built not only a massive temple but an entire city, over 2000 years ago.  This magnificent structure rivals anything I had seen in Italy.  It took over 4 centuries to complete this work of art.  After falling into disrepair over the years, thankfully, it has been meticulously restored by the generous donations of countless organizations.

There are four main areas that comprise the Great Bath: the Sacred Spring, the Temple, the Bath House and the Museum.  From the moment you descend the steps into the Great Bath, you start to imagine yourself part of the privileged class who would have indulged in the ritualistic bathing that was so important to the Romans.  With your attendant in tow,  you would pay your entrance fee, leave your clothing, don a toga and enter the palaestra or gymnasium for some exercising.  From there you would enter the tepidarium, or warm bath room, where you would be scrubbed clean before entering the caldarium, or hot bath room (sort of like a sauna).   You would then have another attendant massage you with oils.  After your massage, it’s time to cool down in the frigidarium and then off you’d go to socialize around the swimming pool.

Overlooking the Great Bath.

Overlooking the Great Bath.

This world-class museum also houses a collection of archeological finds that just boggle the mind.  Included in this exhibition is the recent discovery of over 17,000 Roman coins dating back to the first century.

After the Romans left in the 5th century, the city was claimed by the Saxons and then by the Normans, which left the city in ruins.  A revitalization effort was begun in the 1500s when people began to flock to these mineral springs in the hopes of curing whatever ailed them …. like leprosy!  Oh my!!    But the real recovery didn’t come until the late 1700s when Richard “Beau” Nash, an opportunist and inveterate gambler, made the city a hub for the fashionable elite.   Nash brought with him wealthy investors who built the Grand Pump Room, the Circus and the Royal Crescent among others, and created an atmosphere of elegant social life.

The original Georgian-style Grand Pump Room, built directly above the Roman Baths, was a “gathering” room for the wealthy … to see and be seen.  As more and more people began flocking to this beautiful structure, it was deemed too small and was demolished.   In 1796 a magnificent new building was constructed on the very site – eighty-five feet long, forty-six feet wide, and thirty-four feet high – which is the Pump Room you can visit today.  Not only can you “take the waters” (which simply means you can drink a sample of the mineral water, for a fee), you can indulge in the most sumptuous of all classic Afternoon Teas while swaying to the music of the Pump Room Trio.  Divine!

Completely revitalized the city attracted musicians, writers, artists and royalty. People like Charles Dickens, Thomas Gainsborough, Franz Liszt and Jane Austen.   Actually it was Jane’s parents who moved their family to Bath in 1801. Jane was a young, talented novelist who used Bath as the setting for three of her six novels. Who hasn’t read (or at least seen the movies) Pride and Prejudice and Sense and Sensibility.  More successful after her death than during her lifetime, the enormous popularity of Jane’s novels has led to multiple adaptations for movie and television screens.  Sir Laurence Olivier starred as Mr. Darcy in the first version of Pride and Prejudice in 1940. The most recent  film’s impressive cast included Keira Knightley, Donald Sutherland and Dame Judi Dench.

For fans of Jane Austen, a visit to the Jane Austen Centre is a MUST.  We were greeted by Mr. Darby himself upon entering the Centre!  From the classic Georgian town house, to dressing up in any of the Regency costumes, including top hats, bonnets and fans, and then of course, enjoying a pot of tea with a savoury or two in the Tea Room on the second floor, you will catapult yourself back in time – just as it was in her novels.   This memorable treat should not be missed.

The city is resplendent in nature with sprawling open parks and meticulously-groomed gardens.   Crossing over the River Avon, Bath’s Pulteney Bridge is one of the world’s most beautiful bridges in the world.  Just like the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, not only is it magnificent in its neoclassical architecture, it has shops built right into it … a perfect place to indulge in a little souvenir shopping.  After picking up that memorable bauble, enjoy a relaxing cruise along this peaceful river.

A visit to the Bath Abbey has to be on your list of places to visit.  This imposing Gothic structure was built in 1499 on the site of two previous Abbeys, both of which had been destroyed in battles.  This is actually one of the last medieval cathedrals to be built in England, and one of the most unique.  Of course, you can marvel at the resplendent architecture and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere, but for a real treat take the tour up to the Bell Tower.   Although there are areas where you can stop and rest, this memorable trek is not for the faint-of-heart or vertigo-afflicted. The steep 212 steps will take you behind the clock face, stand on top of the vaulted ceiling and visit the bell chamber room.  Bring your camera, because the views are simply amazing.

Where do you go after visiting the Abbey?  Well, Sally Lunn’s, of course!! If you aren’t familiar with Sally Lunn, Sally was a young refugee coming from France in 1680.  Finding work was almost impossible, but Sally (originally Solange Luyon) did have one skill, she knew how to make rich, French brioche rolls.  A small bakery on Lilliput Alley (the oldest house in Bath) hired her to make these buns and sell them on the street corner. The buns became so popular, customers would visit the bakery to buy them fresh from the oven.

The bakery, now known as the Sally Lunn House, is part tea room and part museum.  Although it is said to be built in 1482 the excavations on display in the north cellar show that the house actually existed during the Roman occupation.  Because it is conveniently located close to the Roman Baths, it is believed this site could have been an inn for Roman travelers.  Again, put this bakery/tea room/museum on your MUST visit list.  It is a unique and wonderful place to enjoy one of Sally Lunn’s rich buttery buns and a hearty cuppa.

There is so much to see and do in this World Heritage City.  I’ve just touched on a few.  From the Roman Baths to the Jane Austen Centre, the Bath Abbey and Sally Lunn’s Tea Room to name just a few, Bath has to be one of my most favorite cities in England.  I can’t wait to come back!

~ ~ ~ ~ ~
References:  Roman Baths, British Express, Jane Austen Centre, Bath Abbey, Sally Lunn’s House, World Heritage Cities