CLIPPER SHIPS and the GREAT TEA RACE of 1866

I hope you’ve had a chance to read my blog about THE JOHN COMPANY, formally known as the British East India Company, which led the trading of tea and other exotic goods from the Far East to Europe,  Great Britain and the New World. For more than 200 years the British East India Company dominated trading. No longer a commercial venture, more of a political one and a threat to the British government, the company became too powerful and was dissolved in 1834.

In order to control this vast empire, the East India Company, prior to 1834, maintained an impressive fleet of ships.  Built in India, these ships, known as “Indiamen”, were huge warships, not only carrying goods and passengers, but fitted out for war.  For what they did, sailing millions of miles and bringing millions of pounds of goods into port, they were exceptional.

Unloading tea crates on the East India docks. Early 1800s

Life on board, however, was quite harsh.  One story written by an officer tells what life was like on one of these “Indiamen”.  The voyage from London to China and back to England took thirteen months and two weeks. The cramped accommodations offered no privacy or room to move.  There was never enough water or fresh food and scurvy took the lives of many sailors and passengers.  Petty thefts occurred daily, with the accused being flogged or tied to the shrouds.  As bad as things were during the day, they were worse at night with no lamps or lanterns allowed.  Fire, shipwrecks and pirating were the biggest enemies of these mammoth ships.

Meanwhile, in Baltimore, Maryland, a shipyard created a ship that was not only fast, but with a cargo hold big enough to carry a significant amount of freight.  These ships came to be known as Clipper Ships … “clip” was slang for run or fly quickly. The design of these vessels, with their massive sails, enabled them to “clip” over the waves at a great speed, which caused a sensation in the shipping industry.  Now ships could travel at speeds of up to 30 kilometers an hour … and traders could deliver goods faster and the freshest tea possible.  Clipper ships became the new force.

When the Company was dissolved in 1834, Great Britain introduced the Navigation Act, which meant anyone, including non-English companies, could bring goods into a British port.  Finally, there would be competition. The Indiamen ships continued to be in service, but the East India Company soon began to see a rise in competition from these Clipper Ships, which would render their slow ships obsolete.  Speed was now the name of the game.

The Tea Clipper, Serica. 1863

At first, the Company wasn’t worried about these little American ships.  The Indiamen had dominated the shipping industry for centuries.  But very quickly these fast, lightweight American ships began to cut into their trade and their profits.  Although the Clippers were transporting all sorts of cargo, it was “tea” that caused the most interest.  The American Clipper, Oriental, made an unprecedented trip from New York to Hong Kong in only 81 days … an unheard of time in 1850.  She was immediately offered the job of transporting 1650 tons of tea from Hong Kong to London, which she did in only 99 days.

The British shipbuilders immediately began building their own Clippers, producing more than 100 ships, five of which became the most famous of all.  At that point, the race was on!  The competitive spirit sprung into action immediately because whoever could bring tea to market first would gain a monetary incentive.  Crews began competing with each other, not only as a test of their sailing, but also how quickly and efficiently the tea could be loaded onto their ships . . . . because they couldn’t set sail from China until every tea chest was on board.

The image above outlines how to efficiently load crates of tea without wasting space. This illustration shows more than 12,000 chests of tea stowed below deck.

The Clipper ship races began in 1850 and lasted only 20 years, but while they did, they caused incredible excitement.  The ships would thunder down through the South China Sea and into the Indian Ocean, then race to round the southern-most tip of Africa at the Cape of Good Hope. From there, it was north across the Atlantic, past the Azores, and through the English Channel into the Thames.  In the Thames, they would need to be towed by tugs to reach the docks.

The most famous race of all took place in 1866.  By then, the American ships had dropped out, leaving just the English clippers to bring tea to market.  The headline in the DAILY TELEGRAPH announced “The Great Tea Race of 1866” with the main competitors being the Fiery Cross, the Ariel, the Taeping, the Serica and the Taitsing.

On May 30th, they all left China within hours of each other.  Once the ships left the docks in China, telegrams would be sent from each check-in point en route to England.  The Suez Canal was still under construction so around the Cape of Good Hope they ran, taking over three months to reach the English Channel.  A distance of over 14,000 miles.  At times they came close enough to one another to actually see the crews on the competing ship.  The Fiery Cross had the lead only 20 days out, with the Taeping and Ariel falling two days behind and the Serica and the Taitsing a day behind them.  But the weather around the Cape of Good Hope evened things out.  It wasn’t long before all ships were within 24 hours of each other.  By the time they reached the Azores, they were all within sight of each other.

In addition to the bragging rights, the Captain and the crew would be rewarded for their hard work, earning up to sixpence per pound of tea.  So the incentive to win was great.  The British newspapers reported on the race almost daily.  With the changing weather, shifts in the wind and typhoons, except for the Taitsang, which had now fallen too far behind, the ships were staying neck-to-neck.  Eventually, the Taeping pulled out ahead and seemed to be the clear winner, but it was the Ariel to first spot the Cornish coast.  The last leg of the race was in sight.  But even as the Ariel was at full sail, the Taeping was closing in on her.  Both ships needed tugboats to get them down the Thames.

Crowds of people who had been following the race lined the docks, with merchants ready to be the first to announce their tea had arrived.  The Ariel was headed for the East India dock, while the Taeping was headed for the London dock.  With both ships being taken in tow at the same time going up the Thames, there was concern that the race would be a dead heat.  Knowing this, the owners of the Ariel and the Taeping agreed that whichever ship docked first would claim the prize, with no dispute between them.  Which ship would it be?

It was the Taeping who reached the dock first, with a mere 20 minute lead.  The Ariel was second and the Serica came in an hour later taking third place. No race before or since ever had a narrower margin between ships.  And in the spirit of goodwill, the crew of the Taeping shared the prize money equally with the Ariel.

The Great Tea Race of 1866 was the most famous tea race of all.  This was also the last year that  a bonus was paid for the first ship to arrive in London.  For although the ships were fast, the first cargo of tea from China had actually arrived two weeks earlier, in only 66 days, by a steamship, the Erl King.  This steamer was not part of the Clipper ship race, but the fact that it was faster than the Clippers changed the way tea was shipped from then on.  Although most of the Clipper ships remained in service for a few years, with the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, which was not suitable for them, steamships now offered a more efficient and less expensive way of shipping tea and other cargo.

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References:  Homeofohm, Teamuse, Sweetteajunkie, Wikipedia, Smithsonian, Harvard Library, Gutenberg, South Bay Sail, Tea.Co.UK, Vahdam,
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Whitby Lemon Buns

To set the mood for our upcoming U.K. trip (and because it’s a cold, rainy night … and because I LOVE lemon anything …) I decided to make Whitby Lemon Buns.  Lemons are so-o-o popular in British foods.  From lemonade to candied lemon peel, every part of the lemon is used or preserved. In baking, lemon curd is made by the gallon and is used in pies, tarts, buns and to spread on everything from toast to scones.

Lemons and their cousin, limes, originated in southeast Asia and were brought back to the U.K. along with all the other exotic and interesting spices now so very popular, including, of course,  “tea“. These citrus fruits were life saving for sailors and miners because they were known to prevent “scurvy”, a deadly disease which results from a deficiency in Vitamin C.

In the 1600’s, the East India Company published a handbook for use on its ships describing “scurvy” as a dietary deficiency and recommended a “cure” of “fresh food or, if not available, oranges, lemons, limes and tamarinds”.  Scurvy was such a problem for the English Navy, it  actually killed more sailors than the enemies did.  By the 1700’s, the Navy decreed “a fixed amount of lemon juice should be issued daily to all sailors after their fifth or sixth week afloat“.  Are you familiar with the term “limey“, well I think you now know where that nickname originated.

So now that we’ve learned why these small citrus fruits are so popular, I think it’s time to do some baking.

These “buns” or sweet rolls are believed to have originated in Whitby, a small seaside town on the east coast of England.  To be authentic, these buns should have a lemon curd filling.  I, on the other hand, decided to make my own candied lemon peel and added that instead.  I must say these are absolutely perfect … not too sweet, a hint of lemony goodness and the added touch of candied peel gives it  just a bit of lemony crunch.  Let me know what you think.

WHITBY LEMON BUNS

  • 3 cups unbleached flour
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 3 tablespoons butter
  • 1 egg, beaten
  • 1 pkg. active dry yeast
  • 1/2 cup milk
  • 1/2 cup warm water
  • 1 tsp salt
  • zest and juice of 1 lemon (1/2 for dough – 1/2 for glaze)
  • 1/4 cup dried fruit or candied lemon peel … OR
  • 1/2 cup lemon curd*
  • confectioner’s sugar
  • lemon juice

 In a large bowl mix together the flour, salt, sugar and lemon zest.  In a small bowl warm the milk slightly (microwave is fine) and add the butter.  Stir until melted.

Mix the yeast with the warm water and one tablespoon sugar, then let it stand until it gets all frothy.  When this has happened, add this mixture to the dry ingredients.  Then add the milk mixture, the beaten egg and juice of one lemon.  Mix well.  This should be a soft dough.  Cover the bowl and let the dough rest for 15 minutes.

 Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board.  Knead in the dried fruits or candied lemon peel.

Place the dough into a lightly oiled bowl, turn the dough over and over to make sure the dough is oiled as well.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp towel and let the dough rise in a warm place for 1 to 2 hours or until doubled in size.

 When the dough has doubled in size and is ready (it will hold a depressed fingerprint) tip it out onto your pastry board.

Roll the dough into a long roll and cut into 12 to 16 evenly sized pieces.

*If you are filling the rolls with lemon curd, roll each ball out flat with a rolling pin, place a small spoonful of lemon curd in the middle and then shape into a ball.  Pull tightly and make sure the bottom is sealed.

 If not using lemon curd, just roll each ball tightly and then place all the dough balls in a parchment lined baking tray.  They should just touch each other.

Cover again and let rise in a warm place for about 30 to 40 minutes, or until doubled in size again.

Preheat the oven to 400°. Brush the tops of the buns with beaten egg white and then bake for 12-15 mins or until the buns are golden and sound hollow when tapped on the bottom.


Make a simple glaze by mixing 1 cup confectioners sugar with the rest of the lemon juice.  Let the buns cool for a few minutes and then drizzle the glaze over.

Put the kettle on and Enjoy!

 

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CANDIED LEMON PEEL

  • lemons
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 2 tablespoons corn syrup or cane sugar syrup
  • water

Remove the peel from the lemon(s).  Then with a s poon, remove as much of the pith as possible. Slice the peel into long, thin julienne strips.  Place the lemon strips into a small saucepan and just cover with water.  Bring to a boil.

Dump the boiling water out and replace with more water.  Bring to a boil again. Repeat at least four times.  This is the only way to remove the bitterness from the peel.  Drain the peel on a paper towel.

In the small saucepan add 1/2 cup sugar and 2 tablespoons corn syrup or cane syrup. Bring to a boil, add the lemon peel and let it slowly boil until the peel is translucent.  Be sure to scrape down the sides of the pan to prevent sugar crystals from forming.

With a slotted spoon, take the peel out and put onto a sheet of waxed paper to cool.  This is extremely hot and shouldn’t be touched until it is completely cool.  When cool, put the candied peel into your recipe, or put into a tightly covered jar.  Should keep very well.

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References:   Food in 18th Century England,  Wikipedia,